Early September changes the rhythm of Liguria. Along the coast around Alassio, the lungomare, the seafront promenade, still carries the sound of café cups and conversations, with salt in the air and late-summer light on the water. Behind the coast, however, attention turns towards the vineyards. The vendemmia, the grape harvest, begins in the early-to-first-half of September, varying with grape and site. It is a useful shift of perspective for a family staying in this part of the Italian Riviera: away from the beach for a while, and towards the agricultural landscape that gives the Riviera di Ponente some of its most distinctive wines.
Pigato and Vermentino are the two native white grapes that define the Ponente, fitting a region where roughly 65 per cent of wine production is white. Pigato is especially associated with the Albenga area and Salea d’Albenga, with around 260 hectares planted. Its name comes from a dialect word meaning “spotted” or “freckled”, a reference to the rust-coloured speckling that appears on the berries as they ripen. Pigato is closely related to Vermentino, although the exact relationship is still discussed among growers. In the glass, its importance is less about taxonomy than place: this is one of the characteristic whites of western Liguria. Vermentino has a wider Mediterranean story. It reached Liguria via Corsica centuries ago, is more broadly planted and tends to ripen a little earlier than Pigato. Both can produce crisp, saline, mineral wines, qualities that make them natural partners for Ligurian seafood. Ordering one alongside fish here is therefore more than the generic advice to “drink local”. You are matching the food of the coast with grapes shaped by the same regional wine culture, at precisely the point in the year when the next harvest is coming in.
From Ponente whites to Rossese di Dolceacqua
Western Liguria also has a red grape worth knowing by name. Rossese belongs to the far west of the region and is particularly associated with the country around Dolceacqua. Rossese di Dolceacqua became Liguria’s first DOC in 1972, giving this relatively small wine landscape an appellation with a clear geographical identity. For visitors accustomed to choosing Italian wine through famous Tuscan or Piedmontese names, that specificity can be part of the pleasure. Liguria has no DOCG appellations; its classified wines are at DOC level, and production remains closely tied to its narrow coastal geography. The broader name to recognise is Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC, Liguria’s largest wine zone. It extends across the provinces of Imperia, Savona and Genoa and includes Pigato, Vermentino and Rossese, with subzones including Albenganese, Finalese and Riviera dei Fiori. Under the DOC rules, wines labelled for Pigato or Vermentino require at least 95 per cent of the named variety, whilst Rossese requires at least 90 per cent. These details help explain what a label is telling you. They also distinguish Ligurian wine from an anonymous holiday bottle: its names map surprisingly precisely onto the coast and hills you are travelling through.
September makes that geography easier to appreciate because wine is no longer merely something poured at dinner. During the early-to-first-half of the month, the vendemmia puts the vineyards into their working season. Vermentino tends to mature a little earlier than Pigato, though harvest timing varies by grape and site, so it is better to think in terms of this seasonal window than a fixed date. An agriturismo or enoteca can provide a useful introduction without turning a family holiday into a formal wine tour; what matters is being able to ask for the regional grapes and understand the labels. With local seafood, Pigato and Vermentino are the obvious starting points, their crisp, saline and mineral character making sense beside the flavours of the coast. For a red, Rossese di Dolceacqua brings the focus towards Liguria’s far west. There is a particular pleasure in drinking these wines here because they are not always easy to find outside Liguria. For families travelling across generations, this can also be an uncomplicated way to encounter the region’s food culture: adults can explore the wine, whilst the meal itself remains the shared experience. The point is not collecting tasting notes. It is understanding why a particular bottle belongs on a Ligurian table.
For practical planning, keep a few names in mind rather than trying to memorise an entire wine map. Look for Pigato or Vermentino when seafood is on the table, and Rossese di Dolceacqua when you would prefer a local red. The early-to-first-half of September is the harvest period to watch, although individual vineyards do not work to one universal date. Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC is the broad regional label spanning Imperia, Savona and Genoa, so it is useful when reading a wine list or browsing an enoteca. Pigato points more particularly towards the Albenga area, whilst Rossese leads west towards Dolceacqua. These are wines whose regional identity is especially rewarding in Liguria because bottles can be difficult to encounter at home. There is no need to chase a particular estate, vintage or elaborate itinerary. A well-chosen bottle at lunch or dinner can provide the connection just as effectively, especially during a September stay when the coast still feels summery but the agricultural calendar has already moved into autumn.
That is one of September’s quiet pleasures in Alassio and the wider Ponente: the sea remains part of daily life, whilst the hills are entering harvest time. Drinking Pigato, Vermentino or Rossese in season gives a meal a geographical reference, rather than simply a local label. For families considering a private villa stay, this meeting of coast, food and working landscape offers a thoughtful way into Liguria beyond its beaches.